Hello my dears! Today we get to sew the pockets of our Casey Skirts. If you aren’t making View 2, but do want the practicality of pockets, don’t worry, I will have a tutorial up tomorrow with a free pattern for in-seam pockets. But honestly, with how absolutely scrumptious View 2 of the Casey Skirt looks with its gigantic pockets, how could you want to make boring View 1? ;P
Okay, sarcasm aside, let’s get sewing.
First, fold your Pocket Flaps in half along the fold-line. Stitch the short ends from the fold, up to 5/8″ away from the long edge.
I will make an aside here; if you are using a lighter weight material that doesn’t have much structure, I would recommend adding some interfacing to your pocket flaps. Simply cut interfacing pieces from half of the pocket flap (one side of the fold line) omitting the seam allowances, and fuse or catch-stitch to each of your pocket flaps before stitching the side seams.
Run a line of gathering stitches along the outside curve of your Pocket, about 3/16″ away from the edge.
Lightly pull up the gathering stitches until the seam allowance starts to curve in about 5/8″.
Measure and press your seam allowance down all around the pocket, making sure to keep it even. If you have a reversible fabric, make sure that you make a right pocket, and a left pocket, and you don’t accidentally make two of one or the other.
Match up your Pockets with their respective Pocket Flaps.
Matching the notches, pin the underside of the Pocket Flap to the right side of the Pocket.
Stitch the Pocket Flap to the Pocket.
Press the seam up inside the Pocket Flap.
Press the seam allowance of the top half of the Pocket Flap to the inside.
You can see all of the raw edges are going to be nicely tucked inside.
Slip-stitch the top of the Pocket Flap to the wrong side of the Pocket, making sure that you are covering the stitching of the previous seam-line.
Would you look at those gorgeous pockets? You can either leave them like this, or top-stitch the flap before applying them to the skirt.*
Applying the Pockets
I hope that you marked your pocket placement on your skirt pieces with tailor’s tacks before you sewed it all together… but if you didn’t (like I did. Woops!), have no fear! I have a solution for you!
Take your skirt pattern pieces and, using a pencil, punch holes through the dots marking the pocket placement.
Now, simply lay your skirt pattern pieces on top of your skirt, matching up the side seam-line and top edge as best as possible, and mark with chalk, or pins… or hard soap which is what I had on hand. 😉
My markings may be a little smudgy, but they’ll do.
Match up your Pocket to the pocket placement dots, making sure that the higher side of the pocket is towards the skirt Front. Pin. If you need to shift it around a bit, do so now. Remember, the dots are guidelines. If, for whatever reason, they look off to you, shift your Pockets around until they look right. Just make sure you do the same adjustments on both Pockets.
Baste your pocket in place. At this point I would recommend trying on the skirt and making sure the pockets are level and hanging correctly. All good? Great! Let’s stitch those pockets down!
You may be asking, why all the basting? Can’t I just skip it? You could… but you really wouldn’t get as satisfactory of a result. We baste things in place first so that if the placement is ever so off we can fix it in the basted stages, rather than after we have top-stitched it. So, baste it. Trust me, it’s worth it.
Starting about 1/2″ away from the pocket edge, top-stitch (and back-tack) parallel to the Pocket Flap seam until you are about 1/8″ away from the Pocket edge. Pivot, and continue sewing around the pocket until you reach the opposite corner. Pivot once again, and stitch parallel to the pocket flap for about another 1/2″ and back-tack. These small back tacks at the top corners of your pockets will help them to hold up, and keep from ripping out of your skirt.
If you forgot to top-stitch your Pocket Flaps, now would be a good time to remember to do that. 😉
Remove your basting, and give your pocket a good press. Sigh… those giant patch pockets just make me so happy.
Thanks for reading today! If you want to add in-seam pockets to your Casey Skirt, come back tomorrow for a bonus tutorial and a FREE pattern.
*I forgot to top-stitch the flaps before continuing on with the tutorial, so I did it after they were sewn on to the skirt. I blame 10:00 PM sewing. 😉